Making a Crust

An Oral History of London's Bakers and Bakeries

2026 marks the 360th anniversary of the Great Fire of London which started in a bakers in Pudding Lane. This project will focus on the heritage of baking and its impact on London and vice versa. Baking history in London is shaped by a blend of deep-rooted, centuries-old traditions and rapid post-war modernisation and immigration. It highlights the evolution of multi-generational, and multi- cultural bakeries in London. This project will document the shift from traditional, labour-intensive, overnight baking methods to more modern, community-focused, environmental and social practices and a recent rise of smaller craft and artisan bakeries.

We will explore the heritage of the Worshipful Company of bakers which is London's second oldest guild dating back to 1155. We will look at how it has been responsible for regulating the trade from that time up to the present, working with their archivist and historians as well as their liverymen who will talk about their own work. Many of these are in their 80s and 90s with long working lives in baking and their expertise and experience working in bakeries across London cover many of the key technical and social changes that have impacted baking in London. We will interview the first ever female Master of the Company who takes office in November, herself a 4th generation baker.

The project will focus on other key heritage sites in the history of baking in London, notably some of the London's historic bakeries. These will include: Three examples of 'English' bakeries Dunns, Edwards and Hirst and Sons. Dunn's in Crouch End has roots going back to 1827 and baking skills handed down through 6 generations of the Freeman family. Edwards in Willesden is another "English' bakery dating back to 1908. Baking heritage in London has always been impacted by immigrants. French Communards Mr and Mrs Bertaux fled Paris and set up their Patisserie in Soho 1871. It became one of the earliest patisseries in the area and known for it's 'bohemian' atmosphere as well as its goods. It is still running today owned by Tania Wade who began as a Saturday girl in 1970.

Hyman Rinkoff founded his family run East End bakery when he arrived from Ukraine in 1911 and has introduced traditional Jewish baking to London from challah to beigels. His is just one of the many bakers to bring skills and traditions to London which have become enmeshed in London baking culture. The Brick Lane Beigel Bake is another. Other cultures have brought their baking culture to London and we will explore the history of Caribbean bakeries including 'Mixed Blessing Bakery' which has been running in South London for over 30 years. This heritage is important to students of baking, placing the skills and traditions in context. It reflects the social history of London itself, from changes in taste to immigration, and how communities have shaped and been shaped by baking heritage.

For this project The Bakers Company and The National Bakery School are teaming up with oral history specialists digital-works. to explore this history from the perspective of bakers themselves. Oral history interviews will be recorded for the project with the full interviews given to the Bakers Company and Bishopsgate Institute. These interviews will also be filmed to create a documentary film.

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This project has been made possible with funding from the National Lottery Heritage Fund and The Bakers Company.